Pasta a la Pazzo!
Reprinted with permission from the Raleigh News and Observer, March 24, 2004
by Greg Cox, Restaurant Critic
My husband and I had dinner last Friday at Pazzo in Southern Village, and one of the specials was Rigatoni with Bolognese Sauce. It was absolutely fabulous; the only word I can use to describe it is "creamy." I know there were three or four different meats, but I don't know what the secret ingredient is that gave the sauce the rich creamy flavor. Hopefully, you can persuade the chef to part with his recipe.
-- M.C., Chapel Hill
The "secret ingredient" responsible for that creamy flavor is whole milk, which is reduced and intensified by long, slow simmering. Owner/chef Seth Kingsbury further deepens the flavor by combining the ground beef called for in most traditional Bolognese recipes with ground veal and pork.
Kingsbury also shares the secrets of his Roasted Beet, Goat Cheese and Arugula Salad.
Put the recipes together for a delightful early spring dinner.
Rigatoni with Three Meat Bolognese Sauce
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 pound lean ground beef
1/2 pound ground pork
1/2 pound ground veal
1 1/2 cups whole milk
2 (16-ounce) boxes or cans crushed tomatoes (see Notes)
Salt, to taste
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh oregano
2 pounds rigatoni
Shaved Parmesan, for garnish
Heat oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add onion, celery, carrot, garlic and red pepper flakes and saute about 4 minutes until slightly golden. Add ground beef, pork and veal and cook, breaking up the meat as it browns, 6 to 8 minutes, until done,
Skim or pour off about half the fat (more if you're trying to be health-conscious). Add milk and reduce to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, 30 to 40 minutes until the liquid has almost completely evaporated. Add crushed tomatoes and simmer 1 hour until sauce is thick.
About 20 minutes before serving, stir in salt, parsley and oregano.
Bring 8 quarts of salted water to a boil in a stockpot or other very large pot. Add pasta and cook, stirring, until al dente; check for doneness about 2 minutes before the time called for in the package directions.
Drain pasta and transfer to a large serving bowl. Toss with the Bolognese Sauce and garnish with Parmesan.
Notes: Chef Kingsbury prefers Pomi brand crushed tomatoes, sold in 16-ounce boxes at some supermarkets.
Makes 8 servings.
Per serving: calories, 698; fats, 20 grams (26% of calories); cholesterol, 70 milligrams; carbohydrate, 96 grams; fiber, 5 grams; protein, 33 grams; sodium, 597 milligrams
Roasted Beet, Goat Cheese and Arugula Salad
3 medium golden beets, about 1 pound
3 medium red beets, about 1 pound
Juice of 1 orange
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 bunch fresh thyme
1/4 cup water
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 bunches arugula, stems trimmed and washed
1/2 cup Citrus-White Balsamic Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
1/2 cup crumbled goat cheese
1/2 cup toasted walnuts
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Cut tops off beets and place in a roasting pan with orange juice, olive oil, thyme and water. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover with aluminum foil and bake about 1 hour until the beets are tender.
As soon as beets are cool enough to handle, slip the skins off by rubbing them with paper towels; the warmer the beets are, the easier they are to peel. Set beets aside to cool.
When beets are completely cool, cut into 1/2-inch dice. In a mixing bowl, combine beets and arugula. Add enough vinaigrette to coat salad without leaving dressing pooled in bottom of the bowl, and toss.
Top the salad with crumbled goat cheese and nuts, and serve.
Makes 6 servings.
Per serving: calories, 256; fats, 21 grams (71% of calories); cholesterol, 7 milligrams; carbohydrate, 14 grams; fiber, 4 grams; protein, 6 grams; sodium, 361 milligrams
Citrus-White Balsamic Vinaigrette
1/2 cup white balsamic vinegar
juice of 2 oranges
Juice of 1 lemon
2 shallots, minced
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper, to taste
In a nonreactive mixing bowl, combine vinegar, orange juice, lemon juice, shallots and garlic . Gradually add olive oil, whisking until emulsified. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
This recipe makes more dressing than needed for Roasted Beet, Goat Cheese and Arugula Salad. Leftover dressing keeps well for several days in the refrigerator. Whisk to re-emulsify before serving.
Makes 2 cups.
Per 2-tablespoon serving: calories, 131; fats, 14 grams (92% of calories); cholesterol, 0 milligrams; carbohydrate, 3 grams; fiber, 0 grams; protein, 0 grams; sodium, 73 milligrams
