Pazzo! Hot right out of the gate
Reprinted with permission from the Durham Herald-Sun, October 10, 2003
by Hunter Lewis
Chef Seth Kingsbury worked the room like Raymond Felton in traffic. Bussing tables. Chatting up customers. Pouring wine. Checking on orders. Dishing up food -- his food.His hustle was commendable; his nouveau Italian-inspired dishes were phenomenal. The young, pony-tailed lion behind Pazzo, Kingsbury already boasts more than a decade of experience in some of the Triangle's finest kitchens, like Nana's and Magnolia Grill.
Soon, upstart Pazzo will cement its own lofty place in the local culinary establishment, except you won't sacrifice a car payment for each visit. At least not yet.
Until a couple of months ago, Pazzo was Annie's Old Fashioned Pizzeria and Trattoria, one of the seemingly endless tentacles of the Di Bartalo clan. Gone are the stuffy atmosphere, tuxedos and blue-and-white tablecloths. Only the (fold in half and eat with one hand) N.Y.-style pizza from the take-out window and intense, garlicky aroma from the open kitchen remain.
I ate at Pazzo three times and saw three different sides of the restaurant: upscale Bistro dining; pizza, baseball and a beer at the bar; and a casual Sunday brunch outside.
On a Friday night, my guest and I started with Antipasto ($7.95), Crispy Oysters ($8.95) and a bottle of chianti from one of the most reasonably priced wine lists you'll find anywhere in town.
The generous antipasto plate came loaded with sliced salami and prosciutto, kalamata olives marinated in rosemary olive oil, buffalo mozzarella drizzled in balsamic vinegar and a grilled mix of onions, peppers and eggplant. The sweet mix of veggies and the milky mozzarella almost countered the salty olives and meats. Highlighting the dish was a pickled cherry pepper stuffed with prosciutto and provolone.
Crispy crust dotted with herbs surrounded the plump, juicy oysters. They came served over a spinach and grilled red onion salad tossed in a vinaigrette made with red wine and pancetta. The oysters reminded me of Acme's oysters in Carrboro.
Already full, we pressed on and ordered a Pork Tenderloin special ($17.95), Grilled Salmon ($15.95) and a worthy Penne Pasta ($11.95) with vodka sauce, tomatoes and smoked bacon.
The man behind the grill seared the salmon perfectly and left the inside pink and uniform. A sweet, chunky salad of onions, eggplant, grapes, vinegar, wilted greens and a sweet red pepper sauce filled out the dish. Salmon elevated to another level.
Rubbed in herbs, the smoky pork medallions sat atop a generous portion of polenta, earthy shiitake mushrooms, grilled onions and greens. Diced apples and a mushroom gravy rounded out the dish, a reminder if any that fall is here.
Sunday, we took in a noon brunch as kids biked and roller-bladed down the road among Saabs, BMWs and a Hummer. Moms power-walked, pushing strollers. This is Southern Village, friends, where every yuppie knows your name, and every house looks the same.
We split a mammoth bowl of seriously fresh melon, pineapple and grapes splashed with a honey lemon vinaigrette ($6.95) and a scramble of Italian sausage and roasted red peppers ($7.95) with roasted new potatoes. The fruit still retained its summer sweetness. Unfortunately, the sausage was almost as sweet as the peppers with little bite.
Scrambles aside, Kingsbury and crew have found their groove only a month and a half into this new venture. Served by a capable and friendly wait staff, the food and wine were a bargain and the laid back ambience was suitable for families, dinner for two or a quick bite to go.
Just go before too many others catch on.
